CHS has just released Operation Compass.

This is a solitaire game where the player primarily takes on the role of commanding the Allied forces during the first 4 days of the campaign in Egypt that saw the Italian forces forced out of that country in 1940. The Italian forces are managed by the player in accordance with the rules. The game is not designed for two players. Each hex represents 3 miles from side to side. Each turn represents half a day. Unit counters represent battalions, or Regiments/Reinforced Regiments.

Designer - Chris Harding,

Map and Counter Art – Edmund Hudson.

The game comes with one A3 full colour map, rule book and two small counter sheets that are mounted but not die cut. Price is $18.90 US and this includes airmail postage world wide. If you are interested please either send payment to my PayPal account (topkat@chariot.net.au) or e-mail me and I will send a PayPal request to you.

THAT really looks interesting. Is it based on any pre-existing solitaire system? And I'm heartened to not see any mention of cards.

Hi Michael,

The solitaire system I used is not really based on any other system. I haven't played many solitaire games really (Ambush, Iwo Jima and a Vietnam game from 3W), I did look at a few others (borrowed some rule books to read through) but that's about it.

Chris

:smile:

Chris and anyone else -- having just sent my $ to Chris for Operation Compass, I'm wondering what the best way to cut out these counters is?

In the past, I've used "Fiskars" brand scissors and, while they work, the counters end up being slightly different sizes (due to my inability to cut completely straight lines). I've tried exacto knives and rulers in the past, but the effort there didn't seem worth it.

Is there any "easy" way to do this? A better brand/model of scissors that will get me a cleaner, sharper cut?

Any ideas would be appreciated! Grazie. :smile:

I use the fiskar cutter like in the picture. But if you are only doing occasional DTP then hard to justify the price. There are other cutters with roller blades, I would think that they would be okay as well.

I started off in the early days using a stanley knife and steel rule. Its important though to have the counters on a clean piece of board (wood) and keep them from sliding as you cut.

Luckily in Op Compass there are only 140 odd counters so not too bad.

the counters are double sided but the information on the back I have tried to keep with plenty of margin so not as likely to chop off something important.

I've always used one of those 'healable' green plastic mats they made for cutting fabric, and they work better than a wooden board. I'm finally getting to the point where I'll need to replace, but it's served its time in Hell! :cool:

I do have one of the green plastic mats, I think I got it a few years ago after reading about them here on CSW, maybe one of your posts Rick :)

I found that for cutting sticky labels before mounting them on card stock they were a bit too spongy, I prefer doing that on a piece of wood with a sheet of cardboard, usually about 200 GSM (the stuff my printer supplies as separators for the material they provide me). I have not used it for cutting out counters as I have the fiskar.

Last night while doing the latest batch of counters for Op Comp, I decided to change the blade in my stanley knife, I can tell you now that made a big difference!

Also Noble Knight placed an order for copies of 40th, 57th, Op Compass and Parroy Forest (which has been long out of print but I was able to do a deal and get a small number printed). So that was the good news, but the games are being shipped surface mail, to keep the cost down for the package so won't be in the USA until December, but hopefully just in time for Xmas!

I use a Fiskars 100580-1002 Procision Rotary Bypass Trimmer, 12 Inch and I am very happy with it. You can find it under US $70 many places.

It can cut through chipboard and 16-ply illustration boards very easily.

Dahle makes even better rotary cutters but they're expensive. I may upgrade to their 30-inch professional series rotary cutter as I get closer to retirement.

Yeah, I just can't justify buying a rotary cutter as I'm trying to get rid of most of my games, not add to the collection.

I avoid non-die cut counters 98% of the time, but I've always supported Chris as he's put out some really good and fun games. I guess I'll try to look for a better pair of scissors (sharper and able to cut finer, if I can find such an animal)!

Exacto knife with a metal ruler work well Rob. Blades are cheap and I found using changing to a fresh blade every countersheet makes for better cut counters.

I might try that, Daniel, if I can't find cool scissors.

I've used an Xacto #11 knife and a steel rule for decades, but you really have to pay attention to what you're doing - I've sliced off a bit of my left index finger on more than one occasion. :eek: I buy those #11 blades in the hundred packs because I use them so much.

Hi Rick,

If you are buying blades in 100 packs then you are way bigger user that I am and have a lot more experience but I just can't help but feel the X Acto #11 are a bit light compared to other blades. Though do you use the blades as well when you are doing your map work? You still use pencils don't you?

I thought years ago I read somewhere that the blades are used to 'shave' the color lead on maps?

I remember using the Xacto blades when I used to do plastic modeling and they were great for that.

And does anyone know a miniatures company that makes sailing ships suitable for use with Wooden Ships and Iron Men? Would that me 1:2400 scale for a ship to fit across the two hexes like the counters do?

Chris

I only buy them in 100 packs, as I use so many. I don't use them to 'shave' my colored pencils as I have a great old fashioned pencil sharpener that gives me just the point I want.

My main use for them these days is in assembling map prints to sell, as for years the only way to do such was to get smaller 11 x 17 prints made and then put them together on my light table. My Imaging Shop, where I get my maps scanned, now has a massive printer that allows me to get full sheet (22 x 34) maps printed, so my use of #11 blades will go down quite a bit. I still use that when making up my own counters for various games, as I like mine thick and very precisely cut.

By that I mean that I usually get the graphic files for the counters (or just scan the published version), print them out on good paper, and then just spray mount them onto Illustration board, cut them out using a steel ruler and #11, and then individually glue front to back, usually making them flip vertically. which is more to my ergonomic liking. I won't go into the corner clipping and edge sanding, but the counters I play with can usually stand on their edge. Not for the amateur, but I'm a 'craftsy' artist who has the tools and time, and I'm only making a single set, for my own use. :wink:

Also, my left index finger has had its right edge 'shaved' more times than I can count using that steel ruler, so it's definitely something to consider, and keep your mind on. :eek:

I find it better to pay a few extra bucks for "American Steel" #11's. The much cheaper Chinese blades do not hold an edge and they are brittle. The plastic models I have worked with for the last few years have been "interesting" as you just never really know when the blade will break and that tip will become a missile (I wear safety glasses nd I have switched back to sprue cutters and a file).

I used to do a bit of model airplane building (balsa) but as my hands get worse I am doing less of that (read that as none nowadays). I do not even know if there are US Steel #11's out there any more.

We do have a chain of stationary shops (Office Works) that I have used to print 22 x 34 inch single piece maps for Kirovograd, Battle for Korsun, 57th Panzer Korps and Winter Storm. They are not cheap though, $20 Aussie each.

I haven't made a plastic model for over 10 years, and then really I was just the technical director for my boys who were making them. We had a set of Xacto blades in different configurations and an Xacto holder, but after awhile the boys switched to small electrical side cutter pliers for removing parts from the spruce. Then once of clean any residual off with either an Xacto blade or sandpaper.

When I was a kid and made plastic models, I had a conduit for stuff better than Xacto. My Mom was a nurse and in surgeries they always opened more scalpel blades than they used and once opened, they were discarded whether used or not. She'd bring home blades that had not been used. One of the best was a sickle shaped blade with the cutting edge on the inside. Cutting on the pull made for high precision.

I always found the connection between the scalpel and the blade to be "too flimsy" for any pressure. They are SHARP and GREAT for 1/16" balsa stringers and covering, though.

X-Acto makes a sickle blade as well - Very useful.